NORTH KOREA

DATE(S) VISITED

2014 MAY

Saturday 17/May/2014

I awoke in the hotel realising that today was the day I would be going to North Korea. Wasn’t sure if I felt excited, nervous, apprehensive – maybe a combination of all three I finished doing a number of things in last minute preparations for my trip before getting the shuttle bus from the hotel to the airport. There I met the person I had to meet to obtain my flight ticket and visa.

As she had my visa in her hand to identify me – but I soon had that in my possession – she then took me to the check-in desk where my bag was checked in and I received my flight ticket. I was then escorted through to passport control where she bid me a good trip and departed. As I completed my immigration departure card, I realised I had the ideal opportunity to photograph my visa – as a momento – and my flight ticket

I then went through passport control and security and decided to have a coffee whilst I pondered about the country I was due to visit. Time soon passed and I was boarding my flight. The plane was probably half full at most – but I was surprised that there were a few westerners on board – although it appeared that some were doing contract work.

I wasn’t too impressed with the flight – where the landing gear banged the aircraft both after take-off and also prior to landing. The ‘meal’ was a cold burger (the wrapper said hamburger but…) and a choice of wine, beer, water and coffee – the coffee served in a little plastic cup. An animated film was shown throughout the flight too – although completing 5 sides of official forms en route passed the journey time – one form regarding health and recent whereabouts, another about customs – what you were taking in – including different amounts of currencies- and also covering GPS systems, hand held phones etc, where you were staying and so forth.

On landing, we were bussed to the little terminal building. It was a sparse and basic looking hall – but busy with numerous uniformed offcials trying to look busy and important. First was immigration, where the stony faced officials appeared to take their time processing the documentation. After what seemed a lifetime, my passport was returned to my along with my visa and customs form. I collected my bag and then faced customs. I had stated on my form that I had camera with GPS and mobile phone. I was asked for my passport and the two items. Details were hand written in a book whilst my luggage was scanned. My passport, camera and mobile were then returned to me – and I was through!

Here, I was expecting to be pounced on by two uniformed officials. Instead, behind the barrier two young ladies were looking at me with interest and expectation. They introduced themselves and escorted me to a waiting 9 seater vehicle – where a driver was awaiting with the vehicle. I was impressed with one of them – she was in a yellow traditional dress – with blue and white ribbons supporting her ID card round her neck – similar to one of Leeds away shirts some years ago

En route, I was asked for my visa and passport (which would be returned when I was leaving the country). I was also asked about my visa for China. I explained the 72 hour visa option which I would be using again and I confirmed my ongoing plans once my visit to North Korea had finished – as no doubt, I would be escorted to the airport and checked-in!

As we travelled, it transpired that there would be a group of 18 people doing the itinerary I had chosen – 17 Chinese and 1 (mad?) Englishman (me!). One of the young ladies (who told me her name – but we agreed to abreviate it to An) gave me an outline of my tour and also told me that she would be my ‘guide’ – as she spoke English. She looked through my passport as we travelled along commenting on many of the stamps in it and the places I had visited. I asked about using my camera as it had GPS – although I had switched it off and she replied that she was happy for me to use it -providing GPS remained off. I was also informed of other things I should and should not do – even though I had received a two page email of these on several occasions! I was also told I was not allowed to leave the hotel unaccompanied – and could only take photographs in the city – or when agreed.

We soon arrived at the hotel – traffic jams do not occur in Pyongpang – there are so few vehicles. At the hotel, I was checked-in and went to my room after agreeing to meet An in reception at 7pm where I would be shown where to go for dinner. My room was on the 42nd floor and the views were fantastic overlooking the river and city. At 7pm I met An again and she explained as the rest of the group had been travelling by train from the Chinese border, they wouldn’t arrive until later and so I would be eating alone.

I was taken to the restaurant where I had a dishes of cucumber and radish, soup, rice, fish and vegetables. Interestingly, the TV came on playing some propaganda looking trailers! – One of them more like a Ronnie Barker sketch!! Once I had finished dinner, I visited a couple of shops in the hotel. There were very few people about – especially considering there are supposedly over 1000 rooms. In fact I had been the only diner in the restaurant I had been in – although there were several restaurants. After a short while, I went to my room – though frustrated that I was unable to go for a walk and start experiencing North Korea myself. I prepared myself for the following day and had a relatively early night (very early by my standards – at 11:30) as there was little else to do (although surprisingly I did receive BBC World News on the TV) and it was a 6.30 start the following morning.

Sunday 18/May/2014

I awoke around 06:20 and showered, collected my belongings for the day and headed down to the restaurant for breakfast. My first dish was… pickled cucumber and onions, followed by two slices of toast with butter and jam, followed by an omelette – with a bottle of water and coffee to drink.

Just before 07:30, I met An and the rest of the group – although as there were around 17 Chinese people having breakfast at the same time as myself, I guessed it was them! We went outside to the small coach that would be our transport. An directed me to a seat – and also sat beside me. She confirmed the itinerary for the day and I clarified a few things with her. There were three other guides on the coach – these were there for the Chinese people – so basically, I had my own personal guide!

As we started our journey, I must admit I was quiet excited at the prospects of the day. After around 10 minutes, the hopes and expectations already reached a climax – as the Mansudae Grand Monument came into view showing the tops of Kim II-sung and Kim Jong-il. This had been top of my ‘want to see’ list and yet it wasn’t even 08:00 on my first full day!

We got off the coach and all bought flowers – before proceeding to the statue. Solemn music surrounded the whole area – giving it such amazing atmosphere in the hazy morning sun. I asked An if I would be able to have my photograph taken in front of the statues. As I laid my flowers she took a photograph. She also took several more of me – and whilst I didn’t have my Leeds United football shirt on – we were told decent clothes – shirt, trousers etc) I was wearing my ‘smart’ Leeds United t-shirt

It felt so surreal to be in front of those statues – truly remarkable – and I was already so thrilled that I had decided to visit North Korea – despite some obvious reservations.

After jumping back on the bus, we then started our journey through the city. As with the journey from the airport, it was so noticeable that there were very few vehicles on the roads – and yet the roads were so wide! So many people wore uniforms as they walked along – although many of them looking as though they were marching along on their own.

We were soon in the countryside – and so cameras could no longer be used. I found this a great shame – because the countryside was so beautiful. Everything – the trees, the fields the hillsides – looked so natural but yet so cared for. A great many people were working in the fields – many on their hands and knees with hand tools, cultivating the fields. Some working half way up to their knees in mud and water in the rice fields. Occasionally, a workman may have an Ox to plough the fields. It was as though the people were loving and caring for their land. Another amazing example of this was the fact that I did not see one piece of litter, can, plastic bottle – anything! – on my 160 km journey to the border with South Korea. Everything looked perfect!

Around 2.5 hours later, we arrived at Panmunjom and visited the room where a halt to the war was signed in 1953 (although technically it is only a cease fire and they are still at war) and our guides translated what was said by the official guides.

We then proceeded to the DMZ – the demarcation line between North and South Korea – at the border. It almost seemed comical the number of CCTV cameras etc. both countries had pointing across the border at each other, but there was certainly an awareness that the political situation continued to be so tense and sensitive. An spoke to one of the soldiers and it was agreed I could have my photograph taken with him. Again, it was almost surreal being at the centre of this sensitive area that could shatter world peace at anytime.

We actually went to visit the room where discussions were held in the past and the Military Demarcation Line actually goes down the centre of the DMZ and through the centre of the room and indicates exactly where the front was when the agreement was signed

As it was pointed out the table was actually on the border, I realised I stood with one foot in North Korea and the other in South Korea! I was always good at sitting on the fence

After our visit, we made the short journey to Kaesong City, where we were taken to a restaurant for lunch. I was given a table to myself and lunch was a tradition Kaesong fare served in 11 separate dishes – containing meats, vegetables, spices, rice etc.

There was also a visit to a museum and to a souvenir shop. As I was crossing the wide road (with no cars on it of course!) a young local lad had his eyes fixed on me – and has he walked behind me I sensed he was still looking at me. I was correct… his head was almost facing backwards as he continued to stare at me. I smiled slowly at him – and winked! He slowly smiled back at me – and winked! No words, totally different cultural backgrounds, language barrier – but some friendly communication. I hope he was as happy about it as I was

After lunch, we headed back to Pyongyang where we then visited the Mangyongdae Native House – where Kim II Sung was born – and the splendid gardens surrounding the area. We also visited their Arc of Triumph (slightly bigger than the one in Paris), the Collima statue and finally Kim II Sung Square – the area often shown on UK TV – displaying military parades – where they show off their missiles. Again, I had to pinch myself, to make sure I wasn’t dreaming – and that I was really stood in that square! Finally from there, looking across the river was the Juche Tower – another major significant icon in Pyongyang.

As it was now approaching mid evening, we were taken to a local restaurant where a tradition Korean meal was served – again incorporating many various dishes. Local singers and dancers performed too to add even more authenticity to the occasion.

We returned to the hotel at 9pm. It had been a long, action packed day. Not only that, but a fascinating, exciting, amazing, unbelievable experience – and how would I sleep with so many thoughts and memories racing round my head….

Monday 19/May/2014

The day started with another early call at 06:30. After showering and collecting my things for what I was sure would be another memorable day, I went down to the restaurant for breakfast. There were many more guests there than the previous morning – and a buffet breakfast was available – of which I enjoyed several small warm dishes. Approaching 07:30 I met An, her 3 colleagues and the remainder of the group in reception. We soon boarded the coach and again An confirmed the itinerary for the day.

As we travelled through Pyongyang in a northerly direction (as opposed to southerly the previous day), again it was noticable how many people wore various uniforms – and again many of them looking as though they were marching their way to whereever they were going – and of course the roads were once again very sparse apart from a small number of buses.

Soon it was time for my camera to be put away as we were leaving the city and driving into the countryside. The fields were already busy with many workers tending to their needs. There were also many others walking into the countryside or riding a bicycle.

As in the previous day, the countryside looked so well tended to – and it was enjoyable watching the people working and making the land look so special. As we travelled along An and I conversed at times. She asked me a number of things about England – and told me she would love to visit the UK one day (she had not been out of North Korea). She told me a little about her family – and showed me pictures of her baby boy and family. She also told me how many things operate in North Korea as regards free schooling, medical care, housing and food allowances – so little money was earned or needed.

After around 2.5 hours, we reached our first destination up in the beautiful Mount Myohang area – The International Friendship Exhibition Hall – where over 100,000 gifts from all over the world, bestowed on Kim II Sung and Kim Jong II where on display in numerous rooms. This huge building was built purposely for these gifts and each country had huge cabinets allocated to their gifts – or in some cases (noticibly Russia and China) huge rooms were filled with some of the most lavish gifts imaginable. When we finally reached the cabinet allocated to the UK, I must admit, it looked rather sparse and when An asked me what I thought, I had to be diplomatic with my answer Having said that, we were not alone, most of the gifts from Europe fitted in one or two rooms – compared to the many rooms allocated each to China, Russia etc.

One funny moment did occur, as I was busy looking at some of the gifts – the rest of my group drifted out – only to be replaced by another similar group of Chinese people. I did not realise this at first but when I did, I realised An and myself needed to catch the others up. Unfortunately, An was unsure which way they had gone and has we raced along the corridors trying to locate them – all was needed was the theme tune from Benny Hill In such hallowed place too!!!

I was most impressed by some of the gifts, clearly works of art that reflected the high esteem some held the leaders of Norh Korea in.

Following this, we walked where the area was filled with beautiful aromas from the flowers and trees. We were then allowed up to the first floor balcony where the view of the countryside and mountains was superb – and here we were served coffee or tea. This is where many North Korean leaders sometimes stay for vacation – and it was understandable why this location would be so valued.

Once refreshments had been enjoyed, we mounted the bus again and was on our way to Pohyon Temple which dated from the 11th century and one of the last few remaining Buddhist Temples in North Korea.

We had lunch at a local restaurant – again a selection of dishes to select from. We also had the opportunity to visit another souvenir shop (these are obviously located for the tourists that do visit North korea – and deal in RMB, Euro and USD).

After lunch, it was time to start our journey back to Pyongyang. En route, An asked if I minded if she sat up at the front as the bouncy journey (I taught her the word ‘bouncey’!) by the bus on the poor roads were making her feel unwell. I positively encouraged her to do so. It gave me the opportunity to have some space and not feel like a prisoner It also allowed me to discreetly take a few photographs on the ‘outskirts’ of the city

When we reached Pyongyang, we had another busy schedule. This time we visited a local school – which was huge. Apparently – and we witnessed – many children stay after school for extra cirriculum classes – a sample being chess, volleyball, ballet, music, dancing etc etc.

After seeing some of the children involved in these activities, we were then taken in to the school theatre – which would do any city in the UK proud. The children of the school had filled most of the seats – but we had seats reserved in the prime location – and as soon as we were sitting comfortably in our seats, the performance began.

The acts involved singing, dancing and music and the enthusiam of the performers appeared to know no boundaries. The children were almost dancing with their instruments as they played along. Their big wide smiles clearly showed the enjoyment they were getting from performing – likewise the big wide smile I’m sure was on my face watching them in amazment and gratitude. At times the stage was filled with maybe well in excess of 100 children. What a performance!

After around an hour, with the stage full of music and singing, the performance came to an end. The few ‘guests’ that were there stood to their feet and rightly showed their appreciation.

We were then led out back to our bus -where we were then taken to the local metro station. It almost felt strange being allowed to ‘mix’ with the locals – although our guides kept a very attentive eye on us all – to ensure we didn’t get ‘lost’! Although we almost mixed with the locals, I’m sure the language barrier would have prevented any commication.

I was told by An, that the metro in Pyongyang was as far underground as the metro in Moscow. Whilst I was not aware of that fact, I do know that whilst they were not as artistic as the metro stations in Moscow, the two stations I saw in Pyongyang had there own accomplished style. The one thing that I was aware of immediately entering the escalator was the complete lack of advertisements. I mentioned this difference between London and Pyongyang to An.

As we went down the long descent, the local community on the other escalator ascending the tunnel were curiously looking at us – or maybe me 🙂 Once on the platform we were soon on a train – and again the insides of the carriages looked to have spaces for adverts – but of course they were just empty squares. The insides of the carriages were mostly a wooden facia – and looked very dated – although maybe a little classier than many metro systems.

Once we appeared at the second station, it was time for us to leave the train and on the platform An turned to me and looking up towards the ceiling asked me what it reminded me of. There were lots of coloured lights and my instant response was “Christmas lights”. I then thought this was not an appropriate answer – but An said some people thought fireworks – to which I quickly agreed – not wanting to offend her

After ascending the long tunnel, we went outside and were quickly ushered to one side to ensure none of us was lost! We then went behind the metro station where we were having dinner at a local restaurant. As we waited outside a few minutes, there were locals busy going about there business – but also children playing. Two or three boys looked over and smiled before one waved and shouted “hello”. I guessed he wasn’t talking to the rest of the group – so being the only English person (western even!) I waved back and returned a smiling “hello”. His face beamed

We entered the restaurant and sat ready for dinner. Many different dishes arrived and the Chinese people were encouraging me to start. I in turn was encouraging them (I didn’t want them comparing their masterly skills with chopsticks – compared to my relatively amateur skills 🙂 One gent raised his glass towards me and said “Cheers” – to which I responded. I then had to do likewise with many of the group.

When the meal was finished, the cameras started getting busy – and for some unknown (?) reason the majority of the group wanted their photographs taken with me (that’s a lot of broken cameras then!). An even joined in the humour by saying I was becoming a star!

Outside the restaurant one of the ladies gave my a piece of embroidered silk work she had done and through An I half understood what it was about – but fully intended to find the full facts later by researching on the web.

We returned to the hotel at around 8pm – and I was just about to go to my room when I was told by An I was needed for more photographs – which the Chinese always do. Again, embarrassingly, I appeared to be the centre of attention. Once the ordeal was over, I made arrangements with An for my departure to the airport the following morning and said goodbye to all the other members of the group.

As I walked into the hotel, it was a sad (almost emotional) time. When I entered my room I looked out over the city – and reflected on the experiences I had been so very lucky to enjoy. How thrilled I was that I had taken what many would see as a ‘risk’ in visiting North Korea – but for me, it had certainly been one of my highs in my travel experiences – and I have certainly had some unbelievable highs!

Tuesday 20/May/2014

Again, the day started around 06:30. I skipped breakfast – thinking I would have a coffee at the airport. An met me in reception a little after 7am – and after entering the 9 seater vehicle with her and the driver, I was en route. Like a wonderful encore, we passed by many of the sights – and just to reiterate – none of it was a dream in the real sense – but a dream come true!

An gave me my passport, visa and flight ticket details. When we arrived at the airport, for some reason there was a fair crowd waiting outside the building. An found a route through for me to follow and once inside I was met with security. An thanked me and wished me well in my future. Likewise, I thanked her so much for the way she had looked after me (there were small things she remembered – like always made sure there was a fork and spoon – in case I didn’t want to use chopsticks – and soft drinks were available etc.) I also wished her and her family well and wished her good luck for the future. With that, I waved, turned, and went through security – without any problems.

I then checked in at one of the two simple check-in desks in the basic hall. Once I had my flight ticket, I looked for refreshment facilities – for a coffee. Come on…. I was still in North Korea! … so no coffee – as no refreshment facilities. There was a souvenir stall… well a lady had some things on a table! As I went through passport control, sadly my visa was taken (it would have been a lovely souvenir!)

Looking at the departure screen (old TV?), there were two flights to Beijing in the morning and one in the evening – that was it! Once on the plane – it was the same as the journey into North Korea – banging undercarriage, ‘hamburger’ – and I noticed on the plane wing some faded cyrillic wording… ex-russian plane??

Two hours later I was back in Beijing and felt free (thankfully). The restrictions I felt in North Korea were the only real downside – but as someone who likes to travel on their own – and go and do as I want, having someone at the side of me all the time was a bit of a personal struggle. An had gone everywhere with me – apart from the gents – and bed (OMG – I cannot believe I’ve just put that!)

At Beijing airport, I had to make my way to another terminal – and therefore was entering the country again on the 72 hour visa ruling. I then checked in for my next location – and three hours later I was on my way to Korea – South Korea this time!

A selection of 290 photographs (out of 729) taken on my travels to North Korea. I was restricted by my guide as to where and what I was allowed to photograph - and some are of lower quality as I often had to rush when taking them! The pictures are mainly of the capital - Pyongyang, en route to the border with South Korea around Mount Myohyang.

Please note that the photographs are as originally taken and not enhanced by any means.

My thoughts: A most unusual and interesting country - and experience - having to travel with an official party and having a guide by my side virtually all day. Would love to go back if ever they lift the restrictions (no chance!).

[Please click on the thumbnail images to enlarge. Some maybe little blurred due to rushing the shot - or taking through a travelling bus window etc.

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